Sarasa-Exuberant cotton fabrics with vibrant foils and flowers; Masterpieces from the Museum Collection

Exhibition period:

July 30 (Tue) – October 20, 2019 (Sun)
* Changes of exhibits will be carried out during the exhibition period.

Location:

Cultural Exchange Exhibition, Hall 9

Summary:

Sarasa, or chintz, refers to pattern-dyed cotton fabrics that originated in India. These Indian mordant-dyed and resist-dyed cotton products in vivid madder and deep indigo are noted for the vivacity and vigor. These cotton products must have fascinated anyone who took the fabrics in their hands. Sarasa is well-loved and used not only in India, but also all over the world such as Southeast Asia, Persia, Europe, and Japan. Sarasa was exported in a variety of motifs and colours, which inspired new designs for foreign markets. Sarasa rode the waves of cultural exchange during the Age of Exploration and have been transmitted as an essential item today.
This feature exhibition highlights masterpieces of sarasa fabrics that the Museum has actively been collecting. We hope that you will explore the process in which Indian sarasa was first exported to many parts of the world and then locally produced in many different regions. Enjoy the mesmerizing world of this wondrous textile to your heart’s content!


Exhibition Layout and Main Exhibits

Part 1: It All Started In India

The tradition of producing pattern-dyed fabrics in India has a very long history. These beautiful, dyed textiles were already known to ancient Romans by the beginning of the Common Era. The textiles were exported very early on. During 16th to 17th century, they were known as “sarassa” or “saraça”. In Japan, they came to be known as “sarasa”.

クリシュナ物語図金更紗掛布
Hanging cloth for temple, design of Krishna stories, sarasa with gold embellishment

Coromandel Coast, India; 18th century
Exhibition period: July 30 – September 8, 2019

藍地人物文様更紗儀礼用布
Ceremonial cloth, design of ladies on an indigo ground

Gujarat, India / Sulawesi, Indonesia; 15th – 16th century
Exhibition period: September 10 – October 20, 2019

Part 2: Sacred Sarasa Fabric Handed Down As Family Heirloom

This section introduces Indian sarasa inherited among the Toraja, an ethnic group indigenous to Sulawesi, a mountainous island in Indonesia. The Toraja highly treasure their own hand-made dyed textiles as well as imported Indian sarasa fabrics, and use them in sacred rituals.

茜地狩猟文様更紗
茜地狩猟文様更紗
Ceremonial cloth, design of hunting on a madder ground

Gujarat, India/Sulawesi, Indonesia; 18th century
Exhibition period: July 30 – September 8, 2019

藍地メダイヨン繋ぎ幾何学形花文様更紗
藍地メダイヨン繋ぎ幾何学形花文様更紗
Ceremonial cloth, design of linked medallions and geometric-flower patterns on an indigo ground

Gujarat, India/Sulawesi, Indonesia; 16th – 17th century
Exhibition period: September 10 – October 20, 2019

Part 3: Various Designs From Different Cultures That Crossed The Seas

Indian sarasa became widely exported to all parts of the world during the Age of Exploration. A wide variety of these textiles were created to meet the demands of different markets. The sarasa design introduced in this section are fabrics intended for Indonesia, Siam (Thailand), and Europe, but some designs were widely popular regardless of the regions.

白地立木花樹文様更紗掛布
Palampore, design of a standing-tree design with flower-and-tree on a white ground

Coromandel Coast, India/Sulawesi, Indonesia; 18th – 19th century
Exhibition period: July 30 – September 8, 2019

茜地山水松鶴文様更紗儀礼用布(部分)
Ceremonial cloth, design of landscape with pine trees and cranes on a madder ground

Coromandel Coast, India/Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia; 17th – 18th century
Exhibition period: September 10 – October 20, 2019

Part 4: Sarasa That Fascinated Japanese People In The Edo Period

Indian sarasa was exported to Japan in the latter half of 16th century. They were made as kosode (old-style kimono) which became extremely popular. Sarasa was also used to wrap boxes containing tea ceremony utensils. However, when roller printing and chemical dyes were invented in Europe in the 19th century, European sarasa with even brighter colours was created. As a result, these fabrics replaced a majority of Indian sarasa imports.

赤地花唐草文様西洋更紗掛袱紗
Kake-fukusa, square cloth with a design of arabesque flower on a red ground

Europe; end of 19th century
Exhibition period: July 30 – September 8, 2019

茜地獅子唐草文様更紗茶具敷(部分)
Tea-utensil mat, design of lion and arabesque on a madder ground (one part)

Woven and dyed in India; outer: 18th century, lining: 17th – early 18th century
Tailored in Japan; 19th – 20th century
Exhibition period: September 10 – October 20, 2019

Part 5: Batik, A Blooming Sarasa Culture In Java

Indonesian batik (Java sarasa) has diverse patterns. Traditional Javanese patterns were combined with foreign designs, creating an original pattern. In Sumatra, a zigzag pattern along the edges of batik is preferred. This pattern was introduced to Indonesia through Indian sarasa, showing a deep relationship between both countries.

赤緑染分地花鳥文様金更紗腰衣(部分)
Sarung, skirt-cloth, design of flower-and-bird on a ground dyed in red and green with gold embellishment

Dyed in north coast of Java, Indonesia; embellished with gold in Sumatra, Indonesia
Early 20th century
Exhibition period: July 30 – September 8, 2019

出品リスト

Title Place of Production Place of Used Date/Century Materials Exhibition Period
Hanging cloth for temple, design of Krishna stories, sarasa with gold embellishment Coromandel Coast, India Coromandel Coast, India 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Hanging cloth, scene of South Indian court life on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 18th-19th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of Ladies on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 15th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of women with instrument on a white ground in dyeing both sides Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 17th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of hunting-dance figures on a red stripe ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 19th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of linked medallions and geometric-flower on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 16th-17th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of linked medallions and geometric-flower on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 16th-17th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of circle and geometric-flower on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 16th-17th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of circle and plant on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 17th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of circle and plant patterns on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 17th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of circle and plant on an indigo ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 17th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of arabesque small-flower on a pale greenish blue ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of round-flower on a madder ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 17th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of hunting on a madder ground Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of geometric patterns on a madder ground Coromandel Coast, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 17th-18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa cloth, design of flower, bird and animal on a madder ground Coromandel Coast, India South Sumatra, Indonesia 17th-18th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Ceremonial cloth, design of plant on an indigo ground in dyeing both sides Gujarat, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 16th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Sarasa cloth, design of water-flower on a pale greenish blue ground Coromadel Coast, India   16th-17th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa cloth, design of arabesque flower on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa cloth, design of geometric knot on a light yellowish green ground in dyeing both sides Coromandel Coast, India Sumatra, Indonesia 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa cloth, design of floral check on white and light yellowish green ground in dyeing both sides Coromandel Coast, India Sumatra, Indonesia 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of landscape with pine trees and cranes on a madder ground Coromandel Coast, India Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia 17th-18th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Pha sin, wrapping skirt, design of linked floral lozenge and Garuda on a green ground Machilipatnam, Coromandel Coast, India   18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Palampore, decorative hanging, design of a standing-tree on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India Sumatra, Indonesia 18th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Palampore, design of a standing-tree with flower on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 18th-19th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa cloth, design of flowering-plant on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa cloth, design of flower-and-leaf on a madder ground Coromandel Coast, India Sulawesi, Indonesia 19th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Palampore, ceremonial hanging, design of a standing-tree with birds-and-animals on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India   18th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Cover for altar made with sewn-up sarasa pieces, design of bouquet and figure Europe and India   18th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Tea-utensil mat, design of lion and arabesque on a madder ground Cloth: India Tailored: Japan   Cloth: (outer: 18th century, lining: 17th-early 18th century)
Tailored: 19th-20th century
cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Tea-utensil mat, design of zigzag patterns on a green ground, sarasa with gold embellishment Cloth: India Tailored: Japan   Cloth: (outer: 17th-18th century, lining: 18th-early 19th century)
Tailored: 19th-20th century
cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Sarasa cloth, design of floral circles and floral arabesque on a madder ground Gujarat, India   17th-19th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Port of Nagasaki Drew by Kawahara Keiga
Hem: Coromandel Coast, India
  19th century color on paper 9/10 - 10/20
Under robe with kasuri checks and sarasa with a design of flower bunch Cloth: Coromandel Coast, India
Tailored: Japan
  Cloth: 17th-18th century
Tailored: 18th-19th century
cotton 7/30 - 8/12
Kake-bukusa, square cloth with a design of arabesque flower on a red ground Europe   Late 19th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Sarasa wrapping cloth, design of flowering-plant on a white ground Coromandel Coast, India   18th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Shifuku silk pouch for a Yuteki Tenmoku tea bowl China   16th century silk 7/30 - 9/8
Sample book, Tanmono-kirehoncho by Ashizuka Tarohachi and Ashizuka Shinpachi   19th century (dated 1805) cotton 7/30 - 10/20
Sample book, Tanmono-kirehoncho by Ashizuka Tarohachi and Ashizuka Shinpachi   19th century (dated 1823) cotton 7/30 - 10/20
Sample book, Tanmono-kirehoncho by Ashizuka Tarohachi and Ashizuka Shinpachi   19th century (dated 1823) cotton 7/30 - 10/20
Sample book, Tanmono-kirehoncho by Ashizuka Tarohachi and Ashizuka Shinpachi   19th century (dated 1828) cotton 7/30 - 10/20
Kain-panjang, skirt-cloth, design of flowering tree and bird the Northern Coast of Java, Indonesia   Early 20th century cotton 8/13 - 9/8
Kain-panjang, skirt-cloth, design of flowering tree, bird, and animal with gold embellishment the Northern Coast of Java, Indonesia   Early 20th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Kain-panjang, skirt-cloth, design of flower-and-bird on a brown ground Java, Indonesia   Early 20th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Kain-panjang, skirt-cloth, design of Tambal (serrated edge) patterns Java, Indonesia   Early 20th century cotton 8/13 - 9/8
Sarung, skirt-cloth, design of flower-and-bird on a ground dyed in red and green with gold embellishment Dyeing: Java, Indonesia
Gilding: Sumatra, Indonesia
  Early 20th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Batik cloth, design of arabesque flower-and-leaf on dotted white ground with gold embellishment Dyeing: Java, Indonesia
Gilding: Bali, Indonesia
  19th-20th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Selendang, shawl, design of flowering plant and bird on dotted white ground with gold embellishment Java, Indonesia   19th-20th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of checked flower on an indigo ground with gold embellishment Dyeing: Java, Indonesia
Gilding: Bali, Indonesia
  19th-20th century cotton 7/30 - 9/8
Ceremonial cloth, design of floral check on an indigo ground with gold embellishment Dyeing: Java, Indonesia
Gilding: Bali, Indonesia
  Early 20th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Kain sembagi, skirt-cloth, design of flower on a red ground with gold embellishment Dyeing: India
Gilding: Palembang, Sumatra, Indonesia
  Early 20th century cotton 9/10 - 10/20
Wooden block for sarasa printing India   19th-20th century wood 7/30 - 10/20